so far so good over here, yesterday arvo was abposultely flawless except for the 4,000000 people out, lines stacked to the horizon and just a perfectly groomed offshore with 12ft  tubes coming in, but that doesnt mean i got many! i got a few fun ones but nothing exciting, there is such a defined pecking order out there and you just gotta accept that for what it is, and try get some medium sized ones under your belt…. saw the gnarliest shit ever.. you know those stand up paddle boards all those clowns use at collaroy? well kainoa was out there taking off on second reef on one, SOO MENTAL he was fully getting the biggest pits ever with it, he even threw in a few paddles in one pit, and got a mega closeout at backdoor with it!
but yeah yesty arvo was the biggest waves ive seen in a long time, you see em coming from a mile away so you start paddling early and then they just bombard the pack, there was one set bigger than 12 ft that cleaned everyone up just oin dark and there was bodies everywhere, its so scary/hectic but at the same time its kinda humourous because theres so many dudes getting smoked whereas if you were on your own you’d be losing it..
accommodation is awesome, overlooks sunset and is roomy as, free wireless, cable tv and all the other bells and whistles….. basically just been surfing this wave nearby called BACKYARDS, it is like a poor mans pipeline, with sick ramps and pits and NO ONE out  so we just surf that in the morning for a few hours each day then cruise up to pipe later and try surf between the heavy crowds….
hope all is well back home, i’ll try get some happy snaps off some fellas to show